Category Archives: Port Douglas

Daintree National Park

As you probably already gathered from my previous blog, I’m back in the UK, where it really has been freezing (as opposed to the “freezing” in Australia, which apparently happens already at 10℃): I have had to scrape the car already. And I can freely use the word “sorry” again. As often as I like… Which is getting the very familiar response again: “sorry”… On this island we just don’t sort out who was at fault when bumping into each other (which happens a lot in a busy city like London), we just say “sorry” to each other and get on with our lives. As a Dutch person I had to learn to say “sorry” a lot (yes, I know, we are rather impolite by British standards…), whether I’m really sorry or not, so when I was in Australia I still said “sorry” a lot. Which wasn’t greeted with the same word back, but with a “no worries, mate”… Well – to all the Australians out there: no worries, mates, I didn’t really worry… it was just part of my adaptation into the British society.

Enough rambling, and back to my amazing time in Australia. The other thing I did when in Port Douglas, was visiting the Daintree National Park. Another interesting day. I took a tour with Tony’s Tropical Tours: I can thoroughly recommend them!

Mossman Gorge

Our first stop was at Mossman Gorge, a rainforest located in the southern part of Daintree National Park. As can be expected from a rainforest, it was warm and humid… but again, the flora and fauna was very impressive indeed:

Cauliflory is a term referring to plants that flower and have their fruit from the main stem, rather than new off shoot (begs the question: how did the humble cauliflower get its name…?). I believe the example above is a fig tree. Native ginger… rather large! And the bird’s nest fern: the brown “signature” on the leaves are the spores, which is how the plant is reproduced.

The ground around Cairns and Port Douglas is very fertile, and there are many large farms growing sugar cane all around.

The sugar cane is made into sugar at Mossman Sugar Mill, which serves an area over 8500 hectares. Sugar cane has to be processed rather quickly after harvesting, and in order to get it transported easily over such vast distances, there are narrow gauge railways connecting the sugar cane fields, and the freshly cut sugar cane gets a train ride to the mill.

Daintree river cruise

Next we did a cruise on the Daintree river:

Cruise on Daintree river
  

In search of some wild life… which we found… how about the following:

Yes, indeed… crocodiles… The one on the left, poking his head just above the water, is a fully grown example. The one on the right, sunbathing on the bank, was only a small baby croc. Very impressing to see nonetheless!

And then this lovely flower:

Daylily
  

A lovely flower, but it lasts only a day… made me think of Psalm 103:

15 As for man, his days are as grass: as a flower of the field, so he flourisheth.
16 For the wind passeth over it, and it is gone; and the place thereof shall know it no more.
17 But the mercy of the Lord is from everlasting to everlasting upon them that fear him, and his righteousness unto children’s children;
18 To such as keep his covenant, and to those that remember his commandments to do them.

Psalm 103:15-18 (KJV)

The vegetation along the banks is generally just rather nice:

Vegetation along the banks of the Daintree river
  

The brown spikes at the bottom of the photo are extensions from the trunk of mangrove trees. These extensions anchor themselves in the soil, and help stabilise the tree in the wet, muddy soil at the water’s edge.

Kulki track and lookout

Our next stop was the Kulki track and lookout: the place where the rain forest meets the reef – the only place apparently where 2 World Heritage Areas meet… And indeed, the rainforest goes as far as the beach (see top-left photo)… couldn’t see the reef, but am sure it is in the water there somewhere.

Furthermore, lots of palms and ferns in the rainforest. The Fan Palm is endemic to the rainforests in North Queensland, including the Daintree. And the King Fern can grow to a height of about 5 meter when fully mature – the one in the photo isn’t quite that large, but still quite impressive. It also seems to be “one of the most ancient” ferns in the world…

Noah Valley

Noah Valley – our next stop – is a World Heritage listed private property, only accessible to people on our tour. It, again, had some interesting plants:

Since the soil of rainforests is generally rather poor, many trees generate really large and wide root systems, known as “buttress roots”. Not only does this give the tree more chance of extracting nutrients from the soil by spreading over a larger area, but it also gives more stability as the roots are generally not very deep. The fishtail palm indeed grows like this – the leaves are seemingly torn off, but this is not the case…

And some spiders…:

And some other crawlers and jumpers:

In the afternoon we went for a nice and refreshing swim in a rainforest stream – look how clear the water is…

Rainforest stream where we went for a refreshing swim…

Cape Tribulation

Cape Tribulation was so called by James Cook, after his ship scraped a reef and then got stuck at another reef nearby. He called it Cape Tribulation, because “here begun all our troubles”. We visited the beach in the national park:

Cape Tribulation

At the beach our guide found some green ants that apparently can be eaten… Or at least, the stomach is edible, and is said to taste like lemon… Probably not surprisingly, I have politely declined the delicacy…

Green ants

I scream, you scream, we all scream, for…

On our way back, we went for a nice cold treat – ice cream. From the Daintree Ice Cream Company. Very nice indeed:

Daintree Ice Cream Company

Alexandra Lookout

Our last stop was at the Alexandra Lookout where we had great views of the Daintree river Estuary:

Daintree River Estuary at Alexandra Lookout

And finally – on our way back we were told that this was a special traffic light:

Traffic Light in Mossman…

According to our guide, this is the only traffic light north of Cairns… To put it in perspective, from Cairns to Cooktown – which isn’t even the furthest north in Australia, but it is pretty much where all roads end – is about 327 km, or 203 miles…

It would be a fun fact if it was true… On my way back to the airport in Cairns I discovered that there are indeed very, very few traffic lights, but there are some between Cairns and Port Douglas… Very few anyway, so we’ll take it as a “fun fact with a pinch of salt”…

Great Barrier Reef

One of the “must-do’s” when in Northern Queensland, is visiting the Great Barrier Reef. It is the world’s largest coral reef system, stretching all the way along the north eastern part of Australia’s coast line. It may look like plant material, however, it actually consists of millions of coral polyps, which are small organisms. Coral reef only grows in warm water – in the tropics – and only under water, but no deeper than about 150 m (ok… that’s about 490 ft for the UK…), as it needs sunlight for its growth. Due to this rather shallow depth, it can be easily seen, both from above the sea, as well as when snorkeling or diving. Apparently, it can be seen from space even, but I didn’t check that…

The reef itself is already rather colourful, and so are the fish living there. Besides, there are sea turtles and reef sharks: much to discover…

Visiting the Great Barrier Reef

There are different ways to visit the Great Barrier Reef: most companies offer a boat ride out to the reef, and then people can jump off the back of the boat for a swim and/or snorkeling. A more diverse way is what I did: take a boat out to the reef, where this particular company has an “activity platform” from where the reef can be seen and/or visited in many different ways.

So, on to a boat, leaving Port Douglas behind…

Activity platform at the reef

As said, an activity often associated with visiting the reef, is snorkeling (photo on the left). I must say – I didn’t do that… guess I’m just rather over-cautious, and hearing about reef sharks and just all sorts of animals creeped me out a bit… so I didn’t gather enough courage. However, what I did do, is look round the “underwater observatory” (a tunnel under water with glass walls), and take one of the “semi-submersible” (middle photo; basically a boat with a deep keel with glass walls). I even splashed the cash on a helicopter ride to see the reef from the air- that was really great fun!

Some fish of the reef

One thing I wouldn’t have been able to do if I had gone snorkeling, is take photos. So I guess that would be another good excuse for staying dry… Still, the photos don’t really justice to the colours, as they are taken through glass, so just imagine everything a lot brighter and even more colourful.

The reef from the sky

And here is the evidence of my helicopter flight. Well, at least if you believe that all pictures shown here are mine (which they are!)… I really liked this view of the reef!

Great Barrier Reef, seen from helicopter
  

Feeding fish

Just after lunch time they fed the fish. Just a little, as they weren’t pets, so needed to forage for themselves, but enough for the visitors to admire them. Some of the fish were so keen that they nearly jumped out of the water to get their food…

View from semi-submersible

Finally then some photos from insight the semi-sub, as it is also known as. Top photo shows some coral reef – I think the big round flat ones are known as “plate reef” (“bord-rif” for the Dutch). And doesn’t it look like a plate…? And then a few more different fish… Real shame that these photos look so much duller than what I could see through the glass myself. You’ll just have to imagine how it looks like in real life. Or go yourself…

And that ends this day already. It was really great to see this impressive wonder of creation. And if/when I go another time… I promise, I’ll really try and may even do some snorkeling…

Port Douglas

My first holiday week I spent in Port Douglas, very much in the north of Australia:

It really is a very long way north – the distances in this country still dazzle me: it was a 3 hour flight from Sydney to Cairns, and then another 1 hour drive from Cairns further north to Port Douglas… I already had to scale up from the Netherlands to the United Kingdom in terms of distances, but this is a completely different scale altogether! See this site for a nice way to visualise the relative scale… basically, all of Europe fits in Australia…

Another fact about Port Douglas: it lies in the tropics. Remember that from geography lessons? That’s the region between the tropical latitudes (“keerkringen” for the Dutch readers): the Tropic of Cancer (Kreeftskeerkring) in the northern hemisphere and the Tropic of Capricorn (Steenbokskeerkring) in the southern hemisphere. And Port Douglas is further north than the Tropic of Capricorn, so indeed lies in the tropics.

What else do I remember from geography lessons? That the tropics are very warm… and humid… and has tropical rainforests… All of that is true for Port Douglas: it was warm and humid, but I had a hotel with direct access to the swimming pool from my room:

“Swim-out hotel room”, Port Douglas
  

Moreover, the rainforest was only a short drive away, and as an added bonus: the Great Barrier Reef is also close by. So there was lots to explore!

Port Douglas

Port Douglas is currently a small town, mainly living from tourism. Most of the buildings are hotels. B&B’s or holiday resorts – nearly all of them with some form of pool access as the weather is always warm, really warm or very warm. Had I mentioned already that it was warm there…?

It was established in 1877, after gold was found in the nearby Hodgkinson River as the main port for importing necessary goods for the miners and exporting the mined gold. However, when the Kuranda railway was opened, the goods were transported to and from Cairns, bypassing Port Douglas, and Cairns took over as main port. And when a cyclone in 1911 demolished almost all buildings in Port Douglas, there wasn’t much left of this once so thriving port. Until the 1980’s, when the first big holiday resort was built, and tourism started to boom.

The “St Mary’s By The Sea” church was one of the many buildings that was destroyed in the 1911 cyclone. A smaller church was built instead:

St Mary By The Sea, Port Douglas
  

And this is the local police station:

Police Station, Port Douglas
  

I’m not sure this is a historical building, but with the verandas it looks pretty laid-back, right? What certainly is a historical building, is the Old Court House:

Old Court House, Port Douglas
  

It was built in 1879, and is currently the second oldest surviving of similar buildings in Queensland. I didn’t manage to visit it, so can’t tell more about it than what can be found on internet anyway.

I think I’ll leave my visits to the Great Barrier Reef and the Daintree Rain Forest for separate posts…